Foodie News
How beef became a marker of American identity
Beef is central to American identity, history, and culture, leading to significant consumption and environmental impacts, while efforts to promote sustainable practices and alternative diets are emerging.
Hannah Cutting-Jones, University of Oregon
Beef is one of America’s most beloved foods. In fact, today’s average American eats three hamburgers per week.
American diets have long revolved around beef. On an 1861 trip to the United States, the English novelist Anthony Trollope marveled that Americans consumed twice as much beef as Englishmen. Through war, industry, development and settlement, America’s love of beef continued. In 2022, the U.S. as a whole consumed almost 30 billion pounds (13.6 billion kilograms) of it, or 21% of the world’s beef supply.
Beef has also reached iconic status in American culture. As “Slaughterhouse-Five” author Kurt Vonnegut once penned, “Being American is to eat a lot of beef, and boy, we’ve got a lot more beef steak than any other country, and that’s why you ought to be glad you’re an American.”
In part, the dominance of beef in American cuisine can be traced to settler colonialism, a form of colonization in which settlers claim – and then transform – lands inhabited by Indigenous people. In America, this process centered on the systemic and often violent displacement of Native Americans. Settlers brought with them new cultural norms, including beef-heavy diets that required massive swaths of land for grazing cattle.
As a food historian, I am interested in how, in the 19th century, the beef industry both propelled and benefited from colonialism, and how these intertwined forces continue to affect our diets, culture and environment today.
Cattle and cowboys
Beginning in the 16th century, the first Europeans to settle across the Americas – and later, Australia and New Zealand – brought their livestock with them. A global economy built on appropriated Indigenous territories allowed these nations to become among the highest consumers and producers of meat in the world.
The United States in particular tied its burgeoning national identity and westward expansion to the settlement and acquisition of cattle-ranching lands. Until 1848, Arizona, California, Texas, Nevada, Utah, western Colorado and New Mexico were part of Mexico and inhabited by numerous tribes, Indigenous cowboys and Mexican ranchers.
The Mexican-American War, which lasted from 1846-48, led to 525,000 square miles being ceded to the United States – land that became central to American beef production. Gold, discovered in the northern Sierra by 1849, drew hundreds of thousands more settlers to the region.
The desire for cattle-supporting land played an integral role in the systematic decimation of bison populations, as well. For thousands of years, Native Americans relied on bison for physical and cultural survival. At least 30 million roamed the western United States in 1800; by 1890, 60 million head of cattle had taken their place.
Beef replaces bison
It is no coincidence that the rise of an extensive and powerful American beef industry coincided with the near-elimination of bison across the United States.
Bison populations were already in steep decline by the mid-1800s, but after the Civil War, as industrialization transformed transportation, communication and mass production, the U.S. Army actively encouraged the wholesale slaughter of bison herds.
In 1875, Philip Sheridan, a general in the U.S. Army, applauded the impact bison hunters could have on the beef industry. Hunters “have done more in the last two years, and will do more in the next year, to settle the vexed Indian question, than the entire regular army has done in the last forty years,” Sheridan said. “They are destroying the Indians’ commissary … (and so) for a lasting peace, let them kill, skin and sell until the buffaloes are exterminated. Then your prairies can be covered with speckled cattle.”
In 1884, with no hint of irony, the U.S. Department of Indian Affairs constructed a slaughterhouse on the Blackfeet Reservation in Montana and required tribal members to provide the factory’s labor in exchange for its beef.
By 1888, New York politician and sometimes rancher Theodore Roosevelt described Western stockmen as “the pioneers of civilization,” who with “their daring and adventurousness make the after settlement of the region possible.” Later, during Roosevelt’s presidency – from 1900 to 1908 – the U.S. claimed another 230 million acres of Indigenous lands for public use, further opening the West to ranching and settlement.
The Union Stock Yards in Chicago, the most modern slaughterhouse of the era, opened on Christmas Day in 1865 and marked a turning point for industrial beef production. No longer delivered “on the hoof” to cities, cattle were now slaughtered in Chicago and sent East as tinned meat or, after the 1870s, in refrigerated railcars.
Processing over 1 million head of cattle annually at its height, the Union Stock Yards, a global technological marvel and international tourist attraction, symbolized industrial progress and inspired national pride.
Where’s the beef?
By the turn of the 20th century, beef was solidly linked to American identity both at home and globally. In 1900, the average American consumed over 100 pounds of beef per year, almost twice the amount eaten by Americans today.
Canadian food writer Marta Zaraska argues in her 2021 book “Meathooked” that beef became a key part of the American origin myth of rugged individualism that was emerging at this time. And cowboys, working the grueling cattle drives, came to embody values linked to the frontier: self-reliance, strength and independence.
Popular for decades as a street food, America’s proudest culinary invention – the hamburger – debuted at the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904 alongside other novelties such as Dr. Pepper and ice cream.
After World War II, suburban markets and fast-food chains dominated the American foodscape, where beef burgers reigned supreme. By the end of the century, more people around the globe recognized the golden arches of McDonald’s than the Christian cross.
At the same time, national programs reinforced food insecurity for Native Americans. In efforts to eventually dissolve reservations and open these lands to private development, for example, in 1952 the U.S. government launched the Voluntary Relocation Program, in which the Bureau of Indian Affairs persuaded many living on reservations to move to cities. The promised well-paying jobs did not materialize, and most of those who relocated traded rural for urban poverty.
The true cost of a burger
Policies encouraging settler colonialism ultimately led to more sedentary lifestyles and a dependence on fast, convenient and processed foods – such as hamburgers – regardless of the individual or environmental costs.
In recent decades, scientists have warned that industrial meat production, and beef in particular, fuels climate change and leads to deforestation, soil erosion, species extinction, ocean dead zones and high levels of methane emissions. It is also a threat to biodiversity. Nutritionist Diego Rose believes the best way “to reduce your carbon footprint (is to) eat less beef,” a view shared by other sustainability experts.
As of January 2022, about 10% of Americans over the age of 18 considered themselves vegetarian or vegan. Another recent study found that 47% of American adults are “flexitarians” who eat primarily, but not wholly, plant-based diets.
At the same time, small-scale farmers and cooperatives are working to restore soil health by reintegrating cows and other grazing animals into sustainable farming practices to produce more high-quality, environmentally friendly meat.
More encouraging still, tribes in Montana – Blackfeet Nation, Fort Belknap Indian Community, Fort Peck Assiniboine and Sioux Tribes, and South Dakota’s Rosebud Sioux – have reintroduced bison to the northern Great Plains to revive the prairie ecosystem, tackle food insecurity and lessen the impacts of climate change.
Even so, in the summer of 2024, Americans consumed 375 million hamburgers in celebration of Independence Day – more than any other food.
Hannah Cutting-Jones, Assistant Professor, Department of Global Studies; Director of Food Studies, University of Oregon
This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.
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Local Business
Original Tommy’s: How a Chili Burger Became a Southern California Icon
Original Tommy’s, established in 1946 in Los Angeles, is famous for its thick chili burgers and late-night appeal. It remains family-owned, embodying authentic Los Angeles culture and serving as a cultural landmark despite the fast-food industry’s evolution.
In a city famous for reinvention, reinvention was never the point at Original Tommy’s. Since 1946, the no-frills hamburger stand at Beverly and Rampart has served generations of Angelenos the same way: chili dripping, paper wrapped, eaten standing up, usually late at night. Original Tommy’s isn’t just a restaurant — it’s a piece of Los Angeles history.
From a Small Stand to a City Landmark
Original Tommy’s was founded on May 15, 1946, by Thomas James “Tommy” Koulax, the son of Greek immigrants. What began as a modest walk-up stand selling hamburgers and hot dogs quickly gained attention for one reason: chili. Not the thin, soupy kind — but a thick, meaty chili ladled generously over burgers, fries, hot dogs, and eventually tamales.
The location mattered. Sitting just west of downtown Los Angeles, the stand became a crossroads for working-class Angelenos, night-shift workers, musicians, cops, cab drivers, and anyone else looking for something filling at all hours. Long before the phrase “LA street food” existed, Tommy’s was already living it.
The Chili Burger Becomes an LA Staple
By the 1950s and 1960s, Original Tommy’s chili burger had become legendary. The menu stayed intentionally simple: burgers, hot dogs, fries, tamales, and breakfast items — all enhanced by the same signature chili. The stand-up counters, fast service, and absence of indoor seating created a rhythm that felt uniquely Los Angeles.
This wasn’t fast food chasing national trends. It was local food defining a city.
Growth Without Franchising
Unlike many post-war burger chains, Original Tommy’s expanded cautiously. Beginning in the 1970s, additional locations opened throughout Southern California and later into Nevada. At its height, the chain operated more than 30 restaurants.
What made Tommy’s different was its refusal to franchise widely. Remaining family-owned helped preserve consistency — the chili tasted the same, the portions stayed generous, and the experience remained unmistakably “Tommy’s.”
A Cultural Shortcut for “Real Los Angeles”
Original Tommy’s became more than a place to eat — it became a visual and cultural shorthand for authenticity. Filmmakers and TV producers regularly used the location to signal a grounded, working-class Los Angeles. If a character eats at Tommy’s, you immediately know who they are.
- Films: Heat, L.A. Confidential, They Live
- Television: Bosch, Californication, numerous food and travel shows
Musicians, athletes, and actors have long cited Tommy’s as a post-show, post-game, or late-night ritual — a place that didn’t care who you were, only whether you were hungry.
Why Original Tommy’s Still Matters
Nearly 80 years later, Original Tommy’s endures because it never tried to be trendy. It represents a post-war immigrant success story, a city built on late nights, and a version of fast food rooted in place rather than branding.
In a region overflowing with burger options, Original Tommy’s remains singular — messy, unapologetic, and inseparable from Los Angeles itself.
Original Tommy’s: Then & Now
Original Location (1946–Present):
2575 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA — the iconic stand-up counter location that started it all.
Expansion Era:
1970s–1990s locations spread across Los Angeles County, Orange County, the Inland Empire, and Nevada.
Today:
A smaller but focused footprint, still family-owned and operated from headquarters in Monrovia, California.
Also Good to Know
- Original Tommy’s Official History
The chain’s own account of its founding and legacy. - Los Angeles Magazine: Original Tommy’s
A deeper look at Tommy’s role in LA food culture. - Tasting Table: Chili Burger History
Context on how chili burgers became a regional staple. - Time Out LA: Original Tommy’s
Why the stand remains a must-visit for locals and tourists.
At our core, we at STM Daily News, strive to keep you informed and inspired with the freshest content on all things food and beverage. From mouthwatering recipes to intriguing articles, we’re here to satisfy your appetite for culinary knowledge.
Visit our Food & Drink section to get the latest on Foodie News and recipes, offering a delightful blend of culinary inspiration and gastronomic trends to elevate your dining experience. https://stmdailynews.com/food-and-drink/
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Last Updated on January 30, 2026 by Daily News Staff
Each year on January 31st, National Hot Chocolate Day warms up people across the country by celebrating the timeless cold-weather beverage.
National Hot Chocolate Day
Hot chocolate, also known as hot cocoa or drinking chocolate, is a heated drink consisting of shaved chocolate, melted chocolate or cocoa powder, heated milk or water, and usually a sweetener like whipped cream or marshmallows. Hot chocolate made with melted chocolate is sometimes called drinking chocolate, characterized by less sweetness and a thicker consistency.
The first chocolate drink is believed to have been created by the Maya around 2,500–3,000 years ago, and a cocoa drink was an essential part of Aztec culture by 1400 AD, by which they referred to as xocōlātl.[2] The drink became popular in Europe after being introduced from Mexico in the New World and has undergone multiple changes since then. Until the 19th century, hot chocolate was used medicinally to treat ailments such as liver and stomach diseases.
Hot chocolate is consumed throughout the world and comes in multiple variations, including the spiced chocolate para mesa of Latin America, the very thick cioccolata calda served in Italy and chocolate a la taza served in Spain, and the thinner hot cocoa consumed in the United States. Prepared hot chocolate can be purchased from a range of establishments, including cafeterias, fast food restaurants, coffeehouses and teahouses. Powdered hot chocolate mixes, which can be added to boiling water or hot milk to make the drink at home, are sold at grocery stores and online. (wikipedia)
Links:
National Day Calendar: https://nationaldaycalendar.com/national-hot-chocolate-day-january-31/
Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_chocolate
Visit our Food and Drink section: https://stmdailynews.com/category/food-and-beverage/
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Food and Beverage
Straw Hat Pizza: The Rise, Fall, and Nostalgic Legacy of a California Pizza Icon
Straw Hat Pizza was once a California pizza powerhouse. Explore the rise, decline, and nostalgic legacy of this beloved family pizza chain.
Long before pizza delivery apps, stuffed-crust gimmicks, and national chains on every corner, there was Straw Hat Pizza — a family-friendly, California-born pizza chain that helped define what “going out for pizza” meant for generations.
For many Californians, Straw Hat Pizza wasn’t just dinner. It was birthday parties, Little League celebrations, arcade games, salad bars, and the hum of a busy dining room packed with families. While the brand is far smaller today, its place in American food history is secure.
Humble Beginnings: A California Pizza Story
Straw Hat Pizza was founded in 1959 by Charlie Olson and Bill Henderlong. The first location opened in San Leandro, California, during a period when pizza was still becoming a mainstream American favorite.
The name came from the straw hats worn by pizza makers at early California pizzerias — a visual shortcut that told customers exactly what kind of place they were entering. Casual. Friendly. Pizza-focused.
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The Golden Years: 1960s Through the Early 1980s
Through the 1960s and 1970s, Straw Hat Pizza expanded rapidly across California and Nevada. By 1980, the chain reportedly operated more than 200 locations, becoming a staple in suburban shopping centers and family neighborhoods.
- Large dining rooms built for families and groups
- Arcade games and coin-operated attractions
- Salad bars — a defining feature of the era
- Party rooms for birthdays and team celebrations
The pizza leaned toward what we now call California-style: thin, layered crusts, generous toppings, and a menu designed for sharing. It was food meant to be eaten at a table, not rushed out the door.
Corporate Consolidation and Decline
In 1969, Straw Hat Pizza was sold to Saga Corporation, which later became part of Marriott Corporation. As restaurant consolidation accelerated in the 1980s, Straw Hat became caught in a wave of mergers and acquisitions.
By the late 1980s, many Straw Hat locations were sold to or converted by Pizza Hut. Franchise owners fought back, eventually retaining rights to the Straw Hat name and continuing operations independently — but the brand’s footprint was permanently reduced.
How Straw Hat Pizza Survived
Unlike many mid-century restaurant chains, Straw Hat Pizza never fully disappeared. Independent franchise owners reorganized, preserving the brand, recipes, and name. Today, a limited number of Straw Hat Pizza locations continue operating — primarily in California.
It is no longer a national competitor, but rather a regional legacy brand, sustained by nostalgia and loyal local customers.
Why Straw Hat Pizza Still Matters
Straw Hat Pizza represents an era when pizza parlors were community spaces — places to linger, celebrate, and connect. Its story mirrors the rise of suburban America and the transformation of pizza from novelty to cultural staple.
For many, the memory of Straw Hat Pizza is inseparable from childhood — the smell of baked dough, the sound of arcade machines, and the excitement of a shared pie arriving at the table.
The Nostalgia Revival
Vintage menus, matchbooks, and advertisements from Straw Hat Pizza frequently surface online, part of a broader resurgence of interest in retro restaurants. These artifacts remind us that regional chains once played a major role in shaping American food culture.
Straw Hat Pizza may no longer dominate California strip malls, but its legacy lives on — in memories, collectibles, and the handful of locations still serving slices under that iconic name.
Related Coverage on STM Daily News
External References & Further Reading
STM Daily News continues to explore the food history that shaped our communities — from vanished chains to local favorites that still define how we eat and gather.
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